On the tracks of Sigeric

Since the early Middle Ages, the Via Francigena has been the route...

followed by pilgrims from all over Europe heading towards Rome, the papacy and the heart of Christianity: some 1,600km long, in the year 990, the Archbishop Sigeric covered this journey in 79 days, taking notes for providing a description, as he returned to Canterbury after the archiepiscopal investiture of the pallium by Pope John XV.
His diary therefore forms the most authentic description of this itinerary which, in 2004, was named by the European Council as belonging to the “Europe's Cultural Routes Programme” together with El Camino de Santiago de Compostela (Way of St. James) in Spain. The Via Francigena route was not purely for worship but also a way used by merchants, armies, people of politics and culture who created a route for exchange and communication that resulted in largely unifying the culture in Europe between the 10th and 13th centuries. The Morenico-Canavesana stretch of the Via Francigena, between the Valle d'Aosta and the Biella-Vercelli sections, amounts to 50km and crosses the territories of 10 Municipalities: it takes in a beautiful area of the Moraine Amphitheatre of Ivrea created by the retreat of the Balteo Glacier, one of the world's best conserved geological conformations of glacial origin, dotted by lakes and characterised by the long outline of the Serra, a moraine ridge of 25km.
There were many places for pilgrims to restore themselves physically and spiritually, and even now there are various Romanesque buildings bearing witness to the centuries. In this territory, which emerges in an unexpectedly dramatic fashion onto the plain after the more sheltered path through the Valle d'Aosta, the Via Francigena follows the same route as long stretches of the Strada Reale dei Vini Torinesi (Royal Route of Torino Wines): here is an opportunity, at wine cellars and shops, for sampling the famous DOC appellation wines Carema, Canavese, Erbaluce and Passito di Caluso.
And then there is the local cuisine, with its roots in tradition and seasons, offering tastings of soups and broths, delicious dishes based on mushrooms, chestnuts and onions, salami and cheeses typical to the area as well as a wide variety of sweet foods: a boost of energy along the way can also be found at the many shops signalled... goods that pilgrims will find a space for in their backpacks!
On the tracks of Sigeric
Since the early Middle Ages, the Via Francigena has been the route...
followed by pilgrims from all over Europe heading towards Rome, the papacy and the heart of Christianity: some 1,600km long, in the year 990, the Archbishop Sigeric covered this journey in 79 days, taking notes for providing a description, as he returned to Canterbury after the archiepiscopal investiture of the pallium by Pope John XV.
His diary therefore forms the most authentic description of this itinerary which, in 2004, was named by the European Council as belonging to the “Europe's Cultural Routes Programme” together with El Camino de Santiago de Compostela (Way of St. James) in Spain. The Via Francigena route was not purely for worship but also a way used by merchants, armies, people of politics and culture who created a route for exchange and communication that resulted in largely unifying the culture in Europe between the 10th and 13th centuries. The Morenico-Canavesana stretch of the Via Francigena, between the Valle d'Aosta and the Biella-Vercelli sections, amounts to 50km and crosses the territories of 10 Municipalities: it takes in a beautiful area of the Moraine Amphitheatre of Ivrea created by the retreat of the Balteo Glacier, one of the world's best conserved geological conformations of glacial origin, dotted by lakes and characterised by the long outline of the Serra, a moraine ridge of 25km.
There were many places for pilgrims to restore themselves physically and spiritually, and even now there are various Romanesque buildings bearing witness to the centuries. In this territory, which emerges in an unexpectedly dramatic fashion onto the plain after the more sheltered path through the Valle d'Aosta, the Via Francigena follows the same route as long stretches of the Strada Reale dei Vini Torinesi (Royal Route of Torino Wines): here is an opportunity, at wine cellars and shops, for sampling the famous DOC appellation wines Carema, Canavese, Erbaluce and Passito di Caluso.
And then there is the local cuisine, with its roots in tradition and seasons, offering tastings of soups and broths, delicious dishes based on mushrooms, chestnuts and onions, salami and cheeses typical to the area as well as a wide variety of sweet foods: a boost of energy along the way can also be found at the many shops signalled... goods that pilgrims will find a space for in their backpacks!
  • Carema - Settimo Vittone (km 6,3)

    After the last stop in the Valle d’Aosta at Pont Saint Martin, the border into Piemonte is crossed at Carema, characterised by its vine-groves clinging to the manmade terraces on the slopes of the mountain. This was a real work of art, like the aristocratic and rare Carema wine, only produced here. Positioned at the entrance to the Valle d’Aosta, already back in Roman times it was an important military and commercial transit point to and from the lands of Gaul. The urban layout has retained a rather medieval look, with various buildings standing out such as the Torre degli Ugoni and the Grand Maison (10th-13th centuries). In Carema there are the impressive remains the Castle of Castruzzone (12th century) which dominates the valley floor.

    Settimo Vittone - Borgofranco d'Ivrea (Km 6)

    Taking paths in the midst of woods, you arrive at Settimo Vittone and one of Piemonte’s most important Romanesque architectural complexes: the Pieve di San Lorenzo, with a Latin cross layout and beautiful fresco cycles (10th-14th centuries), and the Baptistery of San Giovanni Battista (8th to 11th centuries) with a square apse and a small bell-tower added in the 13th century. Here, according to tradition, there is buried Ansgarda, the disowned wife of the king of the Franks, Louis II of France (known as Louis the Stammerer), who died in 889. Following an ancient track, you reach the spectacular Castle of Montestrutto, reconstructed in neo-Gothic style at the end of the 19th century on the remains of the ancient medieval fortress, next to which is the small Romanesque church of San Giacomo.

    Borgofranco d'Ivrea - Montalto Dora (Km 3,3)

    The route continues towards the area of Balmetti, natural wine cellars made in the ravines of the mountain and characterised by a current of natural air at a constant temperature of 6-7°C: here there are conserved wine, cheese and salami. This then leads on to Borgofranco d’Ivrea, built in the 13th century following the unification of the populations of Biò, Quinto and Mombueno for defence purposes: at the centre of the town are conserved the remains of the ancient fortified hamlet in rectangular format, while the Civic Tower, now a bell-tower, was a defensive structure.

    Montalto Dora - Ivrea (Km 6,8)

    Taking a route along the slopes of the moraine hills, you reach Montalto Dora: in the old, medieval town centre, you can find interesting examples of rural architecture, marked by loggias on several floors facing onto internal courtyards. The path continues into the area of the 5 Lakes, going across the beautiful woods and vineyards that surround Lake Pistono and the interesting Terre Ballerine: along the way there can be seen the Castle (14th-15th centuries), an ancient fortress restored at the end of the 1800s by the architect Alfredo D’Andrade.

    Ivrea - Cascinette d'Ivrea (Km 3,8)

    After a short stretch that takes in Lake Sirio (fit for swimming), you reach Ivrea, known in Roman times as Eporedia and then Yporegia in the medieval period, a place which has always had a strategic role. In the upper city there is the Cathedral of Santa Maria, commissioned by Bishop Warmondo (969-1005) on the remains of a Roman temple: it conserves many of the original Romanesque elements, such as the crypt with frescoes of the 11th and 13th centuries, the bell-towers, the dome cladding and the outside of the apse, next to which are the remains of the Chiostro dei Canonici. Next to this there rises the impressive Castle “with the red towers”, built in 1358 by Amedeo VI of Savoy as a fortress. On the other side of the square there is the Palazzo Vescovile which still shows signs of the characteristic medieval stronghold: the Torrione del Vescovo, the swallow-tail battlements, the tailpieces and the thick walls.

    Cascinette d'Ivrea - Burolo/Bollengo (Km 4,9)

    Going along level paths, the route continues towards Cascinette d’Ivrea which is built on an extreme spur of diorite at the outer edge of the foothills of Chiaverano, of which it formed part until 1925. Here it is worth taking a break at the beautiful Lake of Campagna, of glacial origin like all the other lakes in the Moraine Amphitheatre of Ivrea.

    Burolo/Bollengo - Palazzo Canavese (Km 4)

    The path continues through dense woods and cultivated fields, touching on Burolo and Bollengo – the second of these is an ancient Frank hamlet originated in 1250 from the settlements of Pærno and Pessano. This then leads to the Church of SS. Pietro e Paolo (11th century), characterised by the entry through the bell-tower, in the front centre, while inside there are the remains of frescoes dating back to the 15th century which may have been painted by Domenico della Marca di Ancona.

    Palazzo Canavese - Piverone (Km 4)

    The next step is Palazzo Canavese, probably of Roman origin as can be seen from some remains attributable to that period. The old town centre, on a terrace overlooking a broad stretch of the plain, still has the Bell Tower, a clear sign of the medieval urban layout.
    Climbing the moraine hill you reach Piverone, created in the 13th century by joining the hamlets of Unzasco and Livione, from which now remains the small Church of San Pietro known as Gesiun (11th century), unique for having a cubic dome which develops in a bell-tower topped by a pyramidal roof: of the frescoes in the presbytery there remains a small fragment depicting a hand holding a book and two keys, which are attributes of St Peter.
    From here can be enjoyed a beautiful panorama over the Biella side of Lake Viverone where the Via Francigena meets the Castle of Roppolo, home of the Enoteca Regionale della Serra (Serra Regional Wine Store) and then continues towards Cavaglià and Santhià.
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