
After the last stop in the Valle d’Aosta at Pont Saint Martin, the border into Piemonte is crossed at
Carema, characterised by its vine-groves clinging to the manmade terraces on the slopes of the mountain. This was a real work of art, like the aristocratic and rare Carema wine, only produced here. Positioned at the entrance to the Valle d’Aosta, already back in Roman times it was an important military and commercial transit point to and from the lands of Gaul. The urban layout has retained a rather medieval look, with various buildings standing out such as the
Torre degli Ugoni and the
Grand Maison (10th-13th centuries). In Carema there are the impressive remains the
Castle of Castruzzone (12th century) which dominates the valley floor.

Taking paths in the midst of woods, you arrive at
Settimo Vittone and one of Piemonte’s most important Romanesque architectural complexes: the
Pieve di San Lorenzo, with a Latin cross layout and beautiful fresco cycles (10th-14th centuries), and the
Baptistery of San Giovanni Battista (8th to 11th centuries) with a square apse and a small bell-tower added in the 13th century. Here, according to tradition, there is buried Ansgarda, the disowned wife of the king of the Franks, Louis II of France (known as Louis the Stammerer), who died in 889. Following an ancient track, you reach the spectacular
Castle of Montestrutto, reconstructed in neo-Gothic style at the end of the 19th century on the remains of the ancient medieval fortress, next to which is the small Romanesque church of
San Giacomo.

The route continues towards the area of
Balmetti, natural wine cellars made in the ravines of the mountain and characterised by a current of natural air at a constant temperature of 6-7°C: here there are conserved wine, cheese and salami. This then leads on to
Borgofranco d’Ivrea, built in the 13th century following the unification of the populations of Biò, Quinto and Mombueno for defence purposes: at the centre of the town are conserved the remains of the ancient fortified hamlet in rectangular format, while the
Civic Tower, now a bell-tower, was a defensive structure.

Taking a route along the slopes of the moraine hills, you reach
Montalto Dora: in the old, medieval town centre, you can find interesting examples of rural architecture, marked by loggias on several floors facing onto internal courtyards. The path continues into the area of the
5 Lakes, going across the beautiful woods and vineyards that surround
Lake Pistono and the interesting Terre Ballerine: along the way there can be seen the Castle (14th-15th centuries), an ancient fortress restored at the end of the 1800s by the architect Alfredo D’Andrade.

After a short stretch that takes in
Lake Sirio (fit for swimming), you reach
Ivrea, known in Roman times as Eporedia and then Yporegia in the medieval period, a place which has always had a strategic role. In the upper city there is the
Cathedral of Santa Maria, commissioned by Bishop Warmondo (969-1005) on the remains of a Roman temple: it conserves many of the original Romanesque elements, such as the crypt with frescoes of the 11th and 13th centuries, the bell-towers, the dome cladding and the outside of the apse, next to which are the remains of the
Chiostro dei Canonici. Next to this there rises the impressive
Castle “with the red towers”, built in 1358 by Amedeo VI of Savoy as a fortress. On the other side of the square there is the
Palazzo Vescovile which still shows signs of the characteristic medieval stronghold: the
Torrione del Vescovo, the swallow-tail battlements, the tailpieces and the thick walls.

Going along level paths, the route continues towards
Cascinette d’Ivrea which is built on an extreme spur of diorite at the outer edge of the foothills of Chiaverano, of which it formed part until 1925. Here it is worth taking a break at the beautiful
Lake of Campagna, of glacial origin like all the other lakes in the Moraine Amphitheatre of Ivrea.

The path continues through dense woods and cultivated fields, touching on
Burolo and
Bollengo – the second of these is an ancient Frank hamlet originated in 1250 from the settlements of Pærno and Pessano. This then leads to the
Church of SS. Pietro e Paolo (11th century), characterised by the entry through the bell-tower, in the front centre, while inside there are the remains of frescoes dating back to the 15th century which may have been painted by Domenico della Marca di Ancona.

The next step is
Palazzo Canavese, probably of Roman origin as can be seen from some remains attributable to that period. The old town centre, on a terrace overlooking a broad stretch of the plain, still has the
Bell Tower, a clear sign of the medieval urban layout.
Climbing the moraine hill you reach
Piverone, created in the 13th century by joining the hamlets of Unzasco and Livione, from which now remains the small
Church of San Pietro known as Gesiun (11th century), unique for having a cubic dome which develops in a bell-tower topped by a pyramidal roof: of the frescoes in the presbytery there remains a small fragment depicting a hand holding a book and two keys, which are attributes of St Peter.
From here can be enjoyed a beautiful panorama over the Biella side of
Lake Viverone where the Via Francigena meets the
Castle of Roppolo, home of the Enoteca Regionale della Serra (Serra Regional Wine Store) and then continues towards Cavaglià and Santhià.